Anthony Lane writes of his long-standing obsession with risotto, the history and lore of the dish, and the time he took part in a risotto-making competition. The Secret History of Risotto. The dish is governed by a set of laws that are rooted in tradition, rich in common sense, and aching to be broken or bent.

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Anthony Lane writes of his long-standing obsession with risotto, the history and lore of the dish, and the time he took part in a risotto-making competition.
 
 The Secret History of Risotto.
 The dish is governed by a set of laws that are rooted in tradition, rich in common sense, and aching to be broken or bent.

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