Anthony Lane writes of his long-standing obsession with risotto, the history and lore of the dish, and the time he took part in a risotto-making competition. The Secret History of Risotto. The dish is governed by a set of laws that are rooted in tradition, rich in common sense, and aching to be broken or bent.

 

Anthony Lane writes of his long-standing obsession with risotto, the history and lore of the dish, and the time he took part in a risotto-making competition.

 

 The Secret History of Risotto.

 The dish is governed by a set of laws that are rooted in tradition, rich in common sense, and aching to be broken or bent.